The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides are a collection of islands way, way, way off the west coast of Scotland.  We took a boat from Oban to visit the islands of Barra, Vatersay, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist, Bernaray, Harris, Lewis and Great Bernera.

Barra and Vatersay

The ferry from Oban to Barra took five hours!  Kisimul castle in the harbour at Barra was the first thing to greet us. Barra is beautiful but feels very desolate.

We rode out that day to its sister island Vatersay - Vatersay feels even more desolate!  The beaches on the Hebrides are some of the most beautiful I've ever seen.

The churches are kinda scary though!

It's a tough existence out on the islands.  It feels very bleak and precarious but yet tranquil and beautiful.

Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, North Uist and Berneray

From Barra we took the little ferry to Eriskay. Eriskay is where Bonnie Prince Charlie landed in Scotland in 1745 at the start of the Jacobite Rebellion.

South Uist felt the poorest of the islands.  Many of the houses were abandoned and boarded up.

The Uist are a set of very small islands that have been linked with a good road on a causeway.  Very flat, and great riding if you're going in the direction of the prevailing wind of course!

From South Uist we rode through North Uist to Stay on Bernaray.

Harris

The next day we caught another ferry to the stunning island of Harris.  

Harris is famous for Harris tweed, but the beaches and scenery were the winner for me.

Gaelic is the primary language on all the islands.

Now we know what the Tarbert ferry feeds on!  Nom nom nom...

The Golden Road on Harris is utterly deserted and utterly beautiful.

Lewis

On from Harris we rode to the Island of Lewis.  Harris and Lewis are actually the same island. but separated by An Cliseam, the biggest climb we encountered on our trip.

Big skies...

Blackhouses were the traditional houses on the islands until the mid 20th century.

Lewis is not only famous for its ancient standing stones, but also for the Lewis chessmen. These were found in sand dunes at the remote location of Uig on the island.  They were made in the 12th century from Walrus teeth and are exquisitely carved.  A couple remain on display at the museum in Stornaway but most of them are now on display at the British Museum.